CW Fender Eliminator

This is NOT an installation guide.  An installation guide should have been provided with your kit.  This is simply the path I followed for my installation.  I take no responsibility for the outcome of your project.   When in doubt, please contact Competition Werkes for more information.

1.    First I familiarized myself with the parts in the kit prior to installation.

2.    I removed passenger heal guards, exhaust canisters, front and rear seat.

3.    I removed the rear cowl removing the six large Philips screws, disconnect the cover latch cable from the lock, and remove the two cowl snaps holding the cowl to the fender.  To remove these snaps, use a pointed object to push the center of the snaps in.  They can now be extracted.

4.    I then removed the stock Outer Fender by  disconnecting the wires to the brake light, signals, and license plate light, removing the two black Philips screws, two black hex screws, and the two Philips screws under the license plate bracket. Remove the center 6mm bolt at the top, and remove the outer fender from the bike. I was sure to save all the U-brackets that the screws were attached to the fender with, as I needed them later.

5.    I then placed the rear cowl back on the bike now that the outer fender had been removed. Using a pencil, I traced a line around the black inner fender to use as a reference.

6.    Now I removed the tail light from the outer fender. The outer fender will not be reused.

7.    Now comes the tricky part. I cut the stock inner fender about ¼” above the line drawn in step 5.  You can use a hacksaw, but I used a cutoff wheel on my Dremmel tool. Don’t use the wheels that easily snap off, use the ones with the fiberglass in them.  It is VERY important that the cut be straight on the side to mate up with the CW Inner Fender.

8.    The CW Inner Fender needs to have a curve to mate up to the stock inner fender.  I used a 10lb weight from a barbell set to make the curve.  You are told to just use your fingers to curve it, but with the hole that is drilled in the center, it tends to want to kink.  The weight idea worked perfect.  A Large 5lb coffee can would also work.

9.    Drill a 1/4″ hole in the center of the knob at the back of the stock Inner Fender.  Place  the CW Inner Fender in place and mark the area for the License Light to pass through.

10.    Remove the bulb socket from the License Light.  Mate the License Pan with the CW Inner Fender and snap the License Light through the two pieces.  Bend the tangs out to hold in position.

11.    Attach the taillight to the Inner Fender and License Pan using the 3 metal mounting brackets included in the kit.  See the attached photos.  I temporarily bolted the assembly together for reference.

12.    Flatten 2 of the metal U-Clips you saved and fit them over the holes in the sides of the CW Inner Fender.  Be sure they are right side up.  The rear cowl will be attached to these clips through the holes where the cowl snaps were before.  Use 2 self starting screws left over from the removal of the stock Outer Fender.

13.    I now bolted the assembly to the sub frame using the long truss head screw, inserting it from the bottom, through the CW Inner Fender and up through the knob.  Bolt the assembly to the rear of the sub frame with the existing 6mm bolt and washer that held the stock Outer Fender in place.

14.    Remove the 2 side covers over the vents on the insides of the tail section. Mount the 2 Signal Brackets in their place. The cut corner on Signal Bracket goes to the front bottom, finished side out. (I painted mine black).  I then mounted the 2 turn signals to the Signal Brackets.

15.    I soldered the wires for the signals and tail light to the stock wires and connectors. This still allows me to easily disconnect them for disassembly.  You can also use the connectors included in the kit.  I left them as long as possible.

16.    I now mounted the rear cowl back in place.  Carefully spreading the bottom edges to fit over the Inner Fender.  I used automotive door trim on the CW Inner Fender and around the rear cowl for a finished look.
I was extremely pleased with the Competition Werkes kit.  Some people have commented that it seems a little pricey for some sheet metal and hardware, but let’s face it, not everyone has a sheet metal shop in their garage.  The only thing I found lacking was more detailed instructions.  I hope this write-up will fill that void.  I rate this kit an 8 on a scale of 1-10.  The only thing that could make this kit a 10 would be a cardboard template for cutting the stock Inner Fender.

I want to thank John MacDougall  for providing me with some photos to get me pointed in the right direction.

Here are a few more photos for your viewing pleasure.  If you have any questions, please Email me, I would be glad to help in any way I can.