Off it comes: (it’s assumed the bike is in STOCK form)
1. Remove the seat and prop up the tank OR remove it too if you’d like, but it’s not needed.
2. Remove the flapper valve vacuum hoses and then remove airbox lid.
3. Remove the air filter.
4. Pry back the safety tabs covering the velocity stack cap screws, then unscrew and remove them.
5. Gently work the velocity stacks up and out of their airbox holes. *at this point, the airbox can move about on top of the throttle bodies, TAKE CARE!! There are o-rings seated at the crown of both throttle bodies, where the airbox rests and seal to them just leave’em be, BUT don’t forget about these babies, ha.
6. Remove the belly fairing and right side fairing. (aaah come on it’s not that hard.)
7. Slowly and carefully, raise the airbox off the throttle bodies. Take care not the disturb or disconnect anything connected to it. (OR you can disconnect everything from it and completely remove it, but it isn’t required). You’ll need to prop the airbox up and over to the left, in order to have adequate access to everything.
8. Remove the rubber hose connected to the lower right rear corner of the airbox. * this will need to be securely plugged or capped.
9. Follow that rubber hose down to where it connects to the PAIR valve, there’s your target.
10. Disconnect (from the back of the PAIR valve) the small vacuum hose that feeds off the rear throttle body. Plug it with a screw and (leaving it still attached to the throttle body) securely stow it. It can be used later whenever you need to sync the injectors, all you’ll need to do is fit a vacuum hose to the #1 side, ha.
11. Disconnect the three remaining hoses to the PAIR valve.
12. The main oxygen feed hose should be loose now. Follow the other two hoses down to where they join their respective hardlines. *from here you can do TWO things: 1) remove the hardlines from the cylinder heads and screw metal plugs into the fittings. It’s VERY hard to get at the rear cylinder fitting), OR 2) Cut the both hoses leaving approx. 1.5" still attached to the hardlines and plug the ends of the hoses. I did #2 and it works just fine.
13. The valve is mounted to the bike via a sturdy bracket and TWO 10mm bolts.
14. Tie a string to your 10mm wrench, because you WILL drop a few times while removing the bracket mounting bolts. I dropped mine and it slid down into an area I could barely see, let alone worm my wrench out of!
15. Once the bolts are out, so is the valve, just worm it out of its home and take a deep breath.
16. Now it’s time to put it all the good stuff back together.
17. NOTE...points of interest: *make absolutely sure everything (hoses/wires) that were/are connected (or is suppose to be connected) to the airbox, IS / ARE properly and securely connected. Also, double check ALL visible wiring in the area of the rear throttle body and the backside of that body...lots of wires around there, so just make sure nothing has come lose or is chafing (rubbing through). As you lower the airbox into place, MAKE SURE those o-rings are still where they belong...remember? While installing and securing the velocity stacks, my o-rings popped out of their grooves twice so watch it.